Eine Sommerreise (A summer trip)

This entry is part 16 of 17 in the series Guiding Hands

In early summer of 1990, having finished my doctoral coursework and completed my master’s thesis on Carl Friedrich Zelter’s Lieder, I started making plans for the following years. I was to pass my candidacy examswritten and orallater in the summer. I applied to study Italian at Università per stranieri in Perugia, Italy. Yet, what excited me the most was a trip to Champaign-Urbana, Illinois. Several well-respected professionals had told me that, if I really wanted to know more about Lieder, I should study with John Wustman. For years, I was bound by school requirements and didn’t think I was ready to approach him. Finally, I wrote to him, asking to study with him privately. And, he agreed to meet with me.

To treat myself, I first went to see a production of Benjamin Britten’s Peter Grime at Opera Theater of St. Louis. The next afternoon, with the powerful score still ringing in my head, I drove north toward Champaign in my little red Corolla hatchback. Without air conditioning, I rolled down all the windows so to not be toasted by the scorching summer heat. A recording of Schubert’s Winterreise (Winter Journey) performed by Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau and Gerald Moore was playing in a loop.[1]

I had chosen to play “Der Lindenbaum” (“The Linden Tree”), the fifth song in the cycle, as my “audition” piece with Mr. Wustman:

Der Linedenbaum

Am Brunnen vor dem Tore,
Da steht ein Lindenbaum;
Ich träumt’ in seinem Schatten
So manchen süssen Traum.

Ich schnitt in seine Rinde
So manches liebe Wort;
Es zog in Freud’ und Leide
Zu ihm mich immer fort.

Ich musst’ auch heute wandern
Vorbei in tiefer Nacht,
Da hab’ ich noch im Dunkel
Die Augen zugemacht.

Und seine Zweige rauschten,
Als riefen sie mir zu:
Komm her zu mir, Geselle,
Hier findst du deine Ruh’!

Die kalten Winde bliesen
Mir grad ins Angesicht,
Der Hut flog mir vom Kopfe,
Ich wendete mich nicht.

Nun bin ich manche Stunde
Entfernt von jenem Ort,
Und immer hör’ ich’s rauschen:
Du fändest Ruhe dort!

The Linden Tree

By the well, in front of the gate,
there stands a linden tree;
In its shadow, I dreamed
many a sweet dream.

I carved, in its bark,
many a word of love;
In joy and sorrow,
I was always drawn to it.

Today, again, I had to walk past it
deep into the night;
There, even in the darkness,

I closed my eyes.

And its branches rustled
as if they were calling to me:
“Come to me, friend,
here you will find rest.”

The cold wind blew
straight into my face.
The hat flew from my head.
I did not turn around.

Now, I am many hours
away from that place.
Yet I still hear the rustling:
“You would find rest there.’

Fischer-Dieskau & Moore

Partly, I wanted to work on the piece in memory of my father: I had known the tune since my childhood, as it was taught at schools with simplified accompaniment along with my dad’s translation.[2] Even then, I understood the wanderer’s nostalgia, his feeling of isolation and his desperation for peace. Often, I stood by the persimmon tree in front of our house, singing the song and wondering if I would in my later years suffer the same kind of loneliness as the wanderer.

Schubert’s beautiful piano writing was the other reason that I chose the song: Although the vocal line stays mostly unchanged in each stropheexcept for a minor phrase, depicting the cold blowing windthe through-composed piano part was descriptive. It requires technical precision and nuanced touch. As I drove, I was imagining playing it in my session the next day.

At about 20 miles south of Champaign, looking in the rear view mirror, I noticed some dark clouds behind me. Gradually, they looked more and more threatening. I pulled the car over; rolled up the windows; turned the music volume up and sped toward town. By the time I arrived in Champaign, the sky had turned green.

I had the habit of memorizing maps before a long trip. However, in complete darkness and torrential rain, I panicked. It was impossible to identify any small street signs. A large highway sign pointed me south toward “University of Illinois, Champaign-Urbana.” Slowly, I continued driving until there was corn field directly in front of me.[3] Based on my sense of direction, I made a left turn onto a two-lane road. When I saw a brightly-lit sign on the right side of road and a wide driveway, I pulled in. IT WAS A FUNERAL HOME. And, my cassette recording was playing “Das Wirtshaus” (The Inn).

Auf einen Totenacker
Hat mich mein Weg gebracht.
Allhier will ich einkehren:
Hab’ ich bei mir gedacht.

To a graveyard,
my path has led me.
Here, I will stay over,
I thought to myself.

Without blinking, I turned the car around. As fast as I could in the stormy condition, I traced my way back to the main roads. The storm blew over quickly. Flooded streets caused several detours. Eventually, I found the motel and settled in for the night.

Next morning, still trying to shake off my nightmarish experience the day before, I walked down the hallway of Smith Hall and knocked on Mr. Wustman’s door. I didn’t know what I was expecting, but definitely not the image standing in front of me. The gentleman who answer the door greeted me with a kind smile, charismatic yet commending. He wore khaki pants and casual shoes. I noticed his eyebrow right away—as thick and wild as my dad’s. There was an instant connection. A sense of comfort came over me.

I played the Schubert as well as I could. Mr. Wustman calmly said: “You played too fast and you have no sound.” Foolishly, I was glad that he didn’t say I was playing too slowly. But, his comment of “no sound” puzzled me. As if he read my mind, he said: “I am not talking about loud or soft. Music must have sound. . .” After working for about half an hour, he asked me to organize my thoughts. We discussed the important things in music making. Quickly, an hour passed. I asked for a second meeting. He said, “Yes.”

Although he didn’t ask me to make any technical change in our session, something in me was awakened. After returning to Kent, I went into my usual practice room and put my hands on the same piano. The sound came out of the instrument, like a powerful creature becoming alive after a long nap. Life was never the same from that day on.

I went to see Mr. Wustman with only one thing in mind: to learn. I didn’t know to be afraid. I didn’t know how ignorant I was. I was determined enough that the storm-and-the-funeral-home encounter didn’t cause me to have second thoughts. (Bad omen?) After returning from Italy, I moved to Illinois.


[1] Die Winterreise: Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau, baritone; Alfred Brendel.

[2] Treated as a folk tune in strophic form, in our music books, the opening phrase of the third strophe was kept in major key.  “Lindenbaum” was translated as “bodhi tree,” perhaps an interpretation of mistranslated Japanese:
井旁邊大門前面, 有一棵菩堤樹. 我曾在樹蔭底下, 做過甜夢無數. 我曾在樹皮上面, 刻過寵句無數. 歡樂和痛苦時候, 常常走近這樹, 常常走近這樹.
彷彿像今天一樣, 我流浪到深更. 我在黑暗中經過, 什麼都看不清. 依稀聽到那樹枝, 對我簌簌作聲: 朋友來到我這裡, 你來找求安靜, 你來找求安靜.
冷風呼呼地吹來, 正對著我的臉. 頭上的帽被吹落, 不忍轉身回看. 遠離開了那地方, 依舊念念不忘. 我常聽見簌簌聲, 你會找到安靜, 你會找到安靜.

[3]For those who are familiar with Champaign-Urbana: I got off Interstate 57 and turned south onto Prospect Ave. Instead of turning left onto Springfield Ave, I kept on going. . .. I believed that I went as far as Windsor Rd.

Crossing the Island

Late August, traveling with my family. . .

Robert usually booked a weekend trip to Yilan (宜蘭), about an hour southeast of Taipei, during my summer visit.  This year, he arranged for us to go south to the central region.  Our first stop was near Guguan (谷關).   Known for its natural hot spring, Guguan is also the entry point of the Central Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Route 8, 台8線).  For my family, it marked the beginning of a cross-island trip that we took together almost half a century ago.

The island of Taiwan shapes like a sweet potato, elongated north-south.  Satellite images show a narrow strip of flat land along the west coast.  Mountain ranges, parallel to the east coast, make up two thirds of the island.  This geographic layout poses obstacles to cross-island traffic.

The construction of Central Cross-Island Highway, beginning in 1956, was to create a commercial conduit while providing veterans with employment opportunities, both during the construction period and afterwards cultivating fruits and specialty foods.  It also boosted tourism at various scenic areas—especially on the eastern end, where striking views of gorges and waterfalls attracted visitors worldwide.

I learned the significance of the highway construction at school and saw many gorgeous photos of the sceneries.  Having a chance to travel across the highway was an exciting news. Still, I took the news with a little trepidation: Suffering often from motion sickness, long car rides on narrow mountain roads worried me.

We rode express train to Taichung and then, traveled from there by bus to Guguan, our first stop.  Other then the hot spring, the village seemed to me, a little city slicker, a quiet rural place.  It didn’t impress me much.

We headed to Lishan (Pear Mountain) the next day.  The road narrowed; tracing the bank of Dajia River (大甲溪).  I dozed off after taking some medicine for motion sickness.  Every time I opened my eyes, I saw us sandwiched by mountains, with the river bed on one side.  And, there were more curves in front of us.

As we got near, a palace-like structure appeared on the hill.  Lishan Guesthouse (梨山賓館) was only a few years old at the time.  A section of the establishment served as summer retreats for President Chiang Kai-shek and his entourage.  The hotel was open to general public all-year-round.

It was almost surreal, after traveling on rugged roads for hours, to see a stone paved open space.  Two stone-carved lions guarded a wide staircase leading up to the main entrances of the palace.  The bright color of the tiled roof contrasting sharply to the mountainy green.  The fancy architectural details were signs of labor and craftmanship.  It reminded me of the Grand Hotel in Taipei.  (As it turned out, they were designed by the same architect.)

We stayed at a more modest hotel nearby but had dinner at the Guesthouse.  It was true that the locally produced ingredients were better than what we could get in the city.  Even cabbages tasted amazing.  Although Lishan became known for its productions of pears, peaches, apples, vegetables, and tea, much of the organized cultivation took place alongside the highway constructions.  I have no recollections of whether we enjoyed any specialty fruits.

The mountain air was refreshing.  The scenery serene.  We were all glad to have a chance to stretch our legs, walking casually around town.  Little Cop even took out his butterfly net, chasing insects.  Someone helped taking a photo of us, standing in front of the Guesthouse.  We were all genuinely happy.  Little Cop holding his net was especially proud.  The enlarged photo was framed and hung in our living room for years.  It is now our most treasured memento.

Continuing our trip eastwards and upwards, we passed the highest point of the highway.  As we descend, there were more and more sharp turns, as if someone took a stretch of road and folded it into sections.  After a night at Tianxiang (天祥), we finally reached the most scenic part of the journey.

Mountains along Taroko Gorge began as sediment on the bottom of the ocean hundreds of million years ago.  Layers of sediments, with increasing pressure, formed limestone, which in turn metamorphosed into marble.  Liwu River (立霧溪) cut a narrow and steep valley through the mountain range.  The stunning view of the mountains, the pristine stream of the river, and the mesmerizing shapes and colors of marble are all unique this region.  As a child, I felt very small standing on the bottom of the valley.  The river that supposedly had the power to erode the mountains seemed very quiet.  Its water, the color of jade.

We made brief stops at several well-known spots:  Swallow Grotto (燕子口), where, at one time, swallows found shelter among the rocks; Changchun [Eternal Spring] Shrine (長春祠), honoring all that sacrificed during the construction of the highway; and the East Entrance Arch Gate.

Our final stop of the trip was the city of Hualien (花蓮).  After having been in and around mountains for several days, it was quite a shock to be back in the midst of city traffic.  We visited the “Cultural Village” of A Mei tribe and watched an indigenous dance show.  Dad always loved interesting rocks.  He couldn’t be happier being in the production region of jade and marble.  We added to our luggage a marble lamp base and two sizable natural rock displays—the creamy marble piece had beautiful Chinese-painting-like veins and the slightly polished jade piece shaped like a mountain.

Having crossed the island, we still had to find our way home.  A car ride along the coastal highway, even more dangerous then route 8, would have been another adventure.  Taking the train would take a long time.  Miraculously, mom and dad decided that we were flying home.  Was it because mom was tired of dragging luggage and two demanding children?  I cannot imagine booking last-minute flights for four today.  Not to mention that we had stones and sticks in our luggage.

This was in the middle of the Mad Men era.  While we were excited to be on the plane, the flight attendants were amused to have two little kids on board.  During the short flight, we had our first taste of 紫雪糕 (ice cream pops with chocolate crust).  Mom must have enjoyed it as much as we did.  She let us have it several times after the trip.

Decades later, staying at a bed and breakfast near Dajia River with all its amenities, I felt a deep sense of melancholy.  There is a Chinese saying: 景物依舊, 人事全非 (The scenery is still as before, but people and conditions have all changed.)  In this case, even the sceneries had changed a great deal.  A 7.3 magnitude earthquake on September 21, 1999 not only destroyed multiple sections of the Cross-Island Highway but also reshaped central Taiwan geologically.  Typhoon Mindulle ruined attempts to repair and reopen the roadway.  Today, the section between Guguan and Lishan is indefinitely closed to regular traffic.

Agricultural development benefited residents of the mountain region, mostly indigenous people and veterans.  Over time, depletion of natural forests led to erosion of top soil, resulting in frequent mud slides and falling rocks.  Tourism generated additional revenue yet diminished the unadulterated natural beauty.  On the positive side, hiking trails, following the old indigenous hunting/gathering routes, provided alternative way to visit the region and to understand the indigenous culture and history.

Only if we could find the perfect balance between environmental protection and new developments. . .

Find out more about Central Cross-Island Highway: Central Cross-Island Highway – Wikipedia
For information on Lishan Scenic Area: Lishan Scenic Area Official Site
Lishan Guest House & more: Lishan Guest House
Natural wonders of Taroko: Taroko National Park Official Site