Purple Waves (I)—Paulownia

This entry is part 1 of 5 in the series Trees

In Northern United States, crocuses and daffodils break through the ground every March announcing the return of spring. Within weeks, blossoming trees follow with white and pink pom-poms, reassuring folks that warmer days are nearing. By the end of April, when light green leaves fill up the clearings between branches, anticipations of the new growing season morph into excitements for summer planning. People stop paying attention to trees. I, however, always look forward to the months of May to see my favorite trees in bloom.

The first spring after moving into the neighborhood, I noticed a tree in the vacant yard at the corner of our street, standing on a small patch of soil against the wall of the apartment building, leafless but full of clusters of purple flowers. Soon, I realized that it wasn’t alone. There were a few more purple trees on the other side. Their blossoming branches protruded above the arch of subway entrance. And, it was very likely that they were offspring of a great tree in the backyard of the building on top of the hill. Out of curiosity, I looked them up online.

Officially Paulownia tomentosa, they are listed on New York City Street Tree Map under Princesstree.[1] Also known as empress trees or royal paulownias,[2] they have the beauty and grandeur to match these names. These royalties need no palaces. They find their ways into botanical gardens[3]; in courtyards; in the rubble of collapsed buildings; alongside railroad tracks; on rocky cliffs and sandy riverbanks. Given enough space with the right conditions, they colonize and form purple canopies visible from a distance. Branded with the stigma of “invasive,” they are unwelcome in some states.

Towering at Central Park
Colonizing near an industrial park

An invasive species is non-native; fast-growing and environmental changing. Paulownia has Asian roots. Because of its fast-growing nature, the wood of 泡桐 (pao-tung) is light-weight and fine-grained, suitable for use as soundboard of instruments. For centuries, it is essential in making Chinese zithers箏 (zheng) and 琴 (qin)—the latter is known to be the instrument for scholars and gentlemen. It is also used in furniture making. The word 桐 (tung) appears frequently in Chinese poetry, symbolizing melancholia and nostalgia. Although, most often, it refers to 梧桐 (wu-tung, Firmiana simplex), unrelated to paulownia,[4] there is a very specific mention of purple tung flowers in寒食江畔 (At Riverbank during Hanshi Festival), 白居易 (Bai Juyi, 772-846):

By the river

草香沙暖水雲晴,風景令人憶帝京。
Grass is fragrant, sand is warm, light wavy clouds on the clear sky;
The scenery makes one nostalgic of the empirical capital.

還似往年春氣味,不宜今日病心情。
Atmosphere of spring remains similar to the years past;
Yet it is discordant to my afflicted mind today.

聞鶯樹下沈吟立,信馬江頭取次行。
Standing underneath the trees, in deep laments, I listen to the bird song;
On the horse, along the river edge, I ride aimlessly.

忽見紫桐花悵望,下邽明日是清明。[5]
Unexpectedly seeing purple paulownia blossoms, I look at them with despair;
Tomorrow will be Qingming in Xiagui.

Was Paulownia invasive or native of North America? Was it imported to Northern America as ornamental trees or for its timber? When was it introduced to this land? There are different theories and arguments. Its ability to adapt and prosper seems to be a double-edge sword.

At the bank of Hudson River with George Washington Bridge in the background.

Indian bean tree in bloom.

[1]New York Street Tree Map_Princesstree: Many trees shown on this map are actually Indian bean trees (Southern catalpa). The leaves of catalpa and paulownia are hard to distinguish.
[2]Paulownia-tomentosa-Missouri-Botanical-Garden
[3]Royal-Paulownia-NY-Botanical-Garden
[4]Firmiana-simplex-Missouri-Botanical-Garden
There is also 油桐 (Aleurites/Vernicia fordii, tung oil tree), cultivated for oil production and as ornamental plants. Tung Blossom Festivals take place in various regions in Taiwan every spring. Tung Blossom Photos
[5] Hanshi 寒食 takes place on the 105th day after Winter Solstice. It often falls on the day before Qingming 清明. Blossoms of Firmiana simplex are yellow green. So, clearly, Bai was describing the sight of paulownias.

Lübeck (II)—A green carpet of fragrance

This entry is part 2 of 3 in the series Lübeck

Writing about Marienkirche, brought back memories of my trip to Lübeck.  I loved the visitor-friendly Old Town; the beautiful opera theater; the wide-stretched beach; the quaint old neighborhood built for wealthy merchants; and the greenery alongside the river banks.

Germans, like most Europeans, take long breaks after lunch. Instead of napping, they love to take long—very long—walks. This beloved tradition has been a frequent subject of poetry and music—which deserve a separate discussion. I visited Lübeck in early March. Winter had not relinquished its dominance over the land entirely. Yet, the weather was calm enough for casual walks. With the baby in the stroller and Lena, the Bearded Collie, holding her own leash in the mouth, our little parade went through the quiet neighborhood, toward the canal.

The path along the bank was quiet; the air was a little damp; scattering sunlight peeked through the treetops where new leaves started to grow. Underneath them, there was a light green carpet of small leafy plants. I thought that they were lily-of-the-valley. Looking a little closer, their leaves are longer in shape and they have slim white stem. When broken, they released a garlicky scent, not too sharp but plenty invigorating. Say hello to Bärlauch (translated directly as bear leek).[1]

In early spring, the ground was turned by young plants poking their heads out toward the sun. The old leaves from the season before were still decomposing. The musty smell of the forest blending with the scent of Bärlauch created a unique fragrance, refreshing and comforting. And, it was the smell of spring for many Germans [2]

Bärlauch pesto is a common ingredient in Germany kitchen, used as a condiment and in cooking. Here, in the States, we can find its cousin ramp[3] occasionally in greenmarkets and specialty stores. Unfortunately, they are hard to come by and, therefore, costly. Whenever I see tiny bunches of ramps at the stores, I think about the walk long ago. Next time, I will linger a while longer and allow myself to be surrounded by the beautiful scenery and the essence of spring.


[1] Bärlauch_Wiki
[2] Wild garlic in the forests.
[3] Ramps_Wiki