Estuary

This entry is part 2 of 2 in the series Marsh

An estuary is a partially enclosed, coastal water body where freshwater from rivers and streams mixes with salt water from the ocean. Estuaries, and their surrounding lands, are places of transition from land to sea. Although influenced by the tides, they are protected from the full force of ocean waves, winds and storms by land forms such as barrier islands or peninsulas.
Estuarine environments are among the most productive on earth, creating more organic matter each year than comparably-sized areas of forest, grassland or agricultural land. The sheltered waters of estuaries also support unique communities of plants and animals specially adapted for life at the margin of the sea.[1]

Since childhood, I always knew that my curiosity and my desire for learning would one day lead me to a strange land. I didn’t know where and how. But, with trepidation, I anticipated the journey for years.

I was exposed to Western cultures at an early age because of my father’s work. Stern but clear sounds of German langue, coming out of LPs, floated in our house. Among dad’s coffee-table books was an album of photos from various theatrical productions of Faust. To a child’s eyes those dramatic images—painted faces, grotesque gestures and surrealistic stage sets were shocking yet intriguing. One of dad’s best friend was a German professor in physics.[2] Tall and skinny, he had very sharp nose. His voice was raspy. Since he didn’t speak any Chinese, he rarely addressed us kids. However, from time to time, a glimpse of sweetness would shine through his big eyes, gently reaching out to me. Still, I was very shy around him. Based on these first impressions, I believed that all things Western were big and dramatic.

Then, I attended a high school established with the support of American missionaries and known for its English language training. Liberation movement of the 1970s was going strong in America—strong enough that its influence was felt in martial-law-era Taiwan. We sang “Kumbaya,” “Blowin’ in the Wind,” and “This Land is Your Land” at school. Guitar accompaniment was always a welcomed addition to the merrymaking. My idea of Western cultures became softer and more uplifting. Yet, I was years away from understanding the regional and national traditions of Western countries.

When I finally crossed the ocean to start a new chapter in my life, I was overwhelmed. I realized the difference between tasting a few drops of saltwater and being immersed in it. The first chance I had; I flew home to my normalcy.

Yet, as I returned, my “normalcy” wasn’t so normal anymore. Having been in the open water, everything in the small pond seemed restricted. Although I was still a firm believer of the superiority of Chinese culture, I became aware of merits of other traditions.

Simply put: Life in a small pond was sweet and calm, while life in the ocean could be challenging and, even dangerous. But it was a wonderland out there, full of colorful things and interesting creatures. And, it’s free of boundary.

Gradually, I adjusted to my new environments. I learned the languages, the traditions and the ways of life wherever I went. Overtime, I knew how to protect myself in difficult situations and was able to blend in. My career interests took me further and further away from my traditions, while my longing for my roots grew deeper and deeper. If it were possible to swim back and forth between the pond and the ocean, I would have gladly done it.

After passing my candidacy exams and spending half a year in Italy, I moved to Illinois to study with John Wustman and to write my dissertation. Original researches in historical musicology are time-consuming. In the predawn era of World Wide Web, such work often involved prearranged visits to various libraries: deciphering manuscripts; hand copying detailed information with pencils. . .. Depending on the subject matter, it could take over a decade to complete the work with a respectable result.

Having been pursuing my advanced degrees for several years, I was eager to complete the final steps. However, I knew that there was no way to rush through the work. I also knew that I might not be able to cross the boarders of the United States until the completion of the work: I would be able to obtain extensions on my visa as long as I maintained good academic standing. If I leaved the country for any reason, I would have to apply for a new visa. And, most likely, I would be denied reentry.

The question “Do you intent to live in the United States permanently?” was notoriously troublesome. Answering “Yes” would mean a denial of any temporary visa. For someone like me who had lived in the U. S. for some time and established roots, answering “No” would often be considered lying and still resulted in a rejection. I prepared myself for a long absence from Taiwan and focused on my research and study.

My years in Illinois turned out to be one of the happiest periods in my life. I spent many daytime hours at the music library, with all my research materials spreading on one of the tables near the reference section. Gradually, I became friends with the librarians and some graduate students in musicology and choral conducting. Since we each specialized in a particular area of study, we didn’t talk much about research. A genuine camaraderie was formed on our common interests in music and learning. For the first time in my life, I fit in. After dinner, I hung out with piano students in the practice rooms in the attics of Smith Hall. After a few hours, a group of us would make a final run to the coffee shop before going home or returning to the dark rooms to make more noises.

UIUC attracts large number of international students every year. There were many Taiwanese students in music while I was there, some major in piano, some in music education and theory. Despite slight age differences, we all got along well. Our conversations often involved with news from home. We celebrated Chinese holidays together. Whenever someone went back to Taiwan during school breaks, treats from home would be shared with cheers and laughter. Not being able to return home, I treasured the opportunity to remain connected to my roots.

On another level, those years were difficult for me mentally. Single-mindedly I pursued a dream of working with music and words. By the time I move to Champaign-Urbana, I knew that I had pushed myself too far to stop let alone to turn back. Gaining footing in the States would provide me a slight chance to continue the journey. I was very aware of the hugely competitive job market for classical musicians either in the academic fields or in performance. At the same time, my chances of becoming a permanent resident depended almost completely on my employments and/or professional achievement. I knew that there was no guarantee that I would survive. I took every step gingerly but with full commitment. I maintained a good attitude because there was no other choice.

Like a little fish approaching the mouth of a river, facing the immensity of the ocean, I needed protection and encouragement. Champaign-Urbana provided me the perfect environment to gain deeper understanding of Western cultural while maintaining some indirect connections to my roots. It was a nurturing place for young scholars and musicians. Its cosmopolitan atmosphere allowed me the comfort that I needed.

I left the city and the campus in 1995. Since then, I paid a few brief visits while in the area. Despite all the new developments, it still felt like home. I remain in touch with many friends whom I met there. Sweet memories. . .


[1] United States Environmental Protection Agency, “Basic Information about Estuaries,” accessed December 11, 2019, https://www.epa.gov/nep/basic-information-about-estuaries.
[2]沃爾夫岡·克洛爾/Wiki in Chinese; Wolfgang_Kroll/Wiki in German

Good morning, Yilan 宜蘭

I always spent last few weeks of summer in Taiwan with my family. And, it has become a routine that we spent a weekend in Yilan 宜蘭. With mom’s declining condition, I didn’t think that we would venture out of Taipei this year. Still, Robert booked an overnight stay.

To my surprise, mom was observant, sitting in the front seat. She enjoyed the foods and loved the attention that everyone gave her. The unfamiliarity of surroundings did cause her anxiety in some incidents. And, she was exhausted after a few hours.

Yilan used to be a sleepy farming and fishing village. Until the last decade, to reach the area from Taipei, it was necessary to travel through winding mountain roads, known as 九彎十八拐 (nine bends and eighteen turns—Google translation). The construction and opening of Xueshan Tunnels 雪山隧道 eliminated the challenge.[1] By cutting through the mountains, it shortened the travel time from two and a half hours to forty minutes. Within a few years, Yilan became the favorite place for a weekend get-away for city folks. Bed & breakfast popped up in the middle of farm fields.

This time we stayed at an interesting establishment. The owners quit their corporate jobs, built a carefully-designed five-room two-story house, and started an organic farm. The house was surrounded by rice paddies, lotus ponds, fruit trees and vegetable gardens.

Early in the morning, while my family was still asleep, I went for a long walk. Carefully, I took the narrow paths between the lotus pond and the rice fields. Late in the season, lotus leaves, burnt by the scorching sun, were black and fragmented. The last few lotus blossoms hidden underneath them softened the image slightly. Water in the rice fields had been drained. Grains on the tillers were still green. Nearby, new crops—last of this year—were already planted in water-filled paddies. Stirred by my movements, little egrets白鷺鷥 let go of their catches and flew to the nearby fields.

I reached the bank of Annong River 安農溪. Biking and hiking trails lined up both sides of the river. Judging by the height of the levees, the water level could rise dramatically during rainy season. Yet, on that particular morning, the river flowed softly like a ribbon.

Crossing the river, there were a few beautifully built new houses. Blooming trees attracted birds and butterflies. Folk were already up, cleaning their yards and getting ready for a new day. Even with the cool morning breezes, I had to shield myself from the rising sun, walking along the shady side of the road. Turning around, I saw mountains, still draped by clouds and mists, stretching all the way towards the ocean. I stopped to take some photos. At that moment, I was overwhelmed by a sense of remorse:

For about two decades, while Robert and I were both away, mom took on traveling and photography. At first, she joined tour groups and snapped casual images of scenery and friends. Then, she joined Chinese Society of Natural Photography自然與生態攝影學會.[2] She hiked up mountains with young people to catch images of natural wonders. Throughout the 90s, during her visits, we would plan all kinds of activities so she could discover new subjects—be it cultural or natural.

Magical colors

When I was at work, mom often practiced her skills on subjects around my house. She loved shooting clouds and sunsets. She couldn’t get enough of autumn foliage. When the photos and slides were processed, she would point out the merits and flaws of each shot to me. She loved going down to Amish country, to observe the slow-paced life, the horse-drawn buggies, the traditional attire, and the handcrafts. When weekend trips in nearby county couldn’t satisfy her anymore, we went all the way to Dutch Country in Pennsylvania. Mom loved Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater.[3] We visited there during different seasons. In order to see all the interior details, we took a private guided tour once.

Misty river, Great Smoky Mountain

We also traveled to several national parks. I remembered arriving at Shenandoah mountain at dusk. Thick fog forced me to move slowly around the mountain roads. Mom was amused by the sighting of deer and was charmed by the little log cabin where we spent the night. We hiked the Great Smoky Mountain for the incredible autumn views. And, before moving to the city, we made a trip to Glacier National Park, where mom made me drive back and forth catching the perfect sunset view. It wasn’t always easy to satisfy mom’s desires for more trips and better scenery. From time to time, I would get really frustrated and would argue with her.

After my move to New York, mom stopped coming to the States. Chaotic city life wasn’t to her liking. In 2004, I became a permanent resident of U.S. and was free to travel again. But, by then, mom had a second knee surgery and had slowed down quite a bit. Even when we took our family trips, we never got to experience the beauty in our surroundings as in the old days.

I wondered what kind of images mom would have caught with her camera or digital devices, if she were standing next to me by the riverbank. I was grateful to know that, from moment to moment, her eyes were still taking shots. I was grateful that, when mom woke up that morning, she was at a beautiful place that she would have appreciated very much.


[1] Xueshan_Tunnel_Wiki
Man Made Marvels 101, Taiwan Hsuehshan Tunnel, YouTube
[2] Chinese Society of Natural Photography
[3] Fallingwater.org