Mulberry

This entry is part 5 of 5 in the series Trees

I took a long walk with a friend alongside Hudson River. Every few feet, a fruit-laden mulberry tree was sustaining the wildlife while expanding its own territory. Young shrubs grew near old trees like multi-generation families. Most of them were the common red mulberries. Occasionally, a white one stood among them.

Watching mulberries ripen, fall and perish on the ground every year, I always wonder why the fruits are not harvested and put to better use. In a Chinese folk tale, 蔡順 (Cai Shun),[1] having lost his father at an early age, took on the responsibility of caring for his mother. During the warring period between Western and Eastern Han Dynasties[2], because of food shortage, he collected mulberries for nourishment. One day, he encountered 赤眉軍 (Chìméi, Red-Eyebrowed rebels). They noticed that he divided his small-quantity gathering into two baskets and asked him why. He said, “The black ones, ripe and sweet, are for my mother; the red, unripe, for myself.” The rebels, moved by his filial piety, offered him cows and rice, which he refused. The moral of the story is about filial piety as well as staying true to one’s principles. But, as a child, I was more curious about the taste of mulberries.

I don’t recall ever tasting mulberries in my youth. But I remember fondly of keeping silkworm (Bombyx mori) caterpillars and feeding them mulberry leaves. It was a common practice meant to teach children the importance of sericulture in Chinese history and the life cycle of silkworms.

Legend has it that Leizu (嫘祖, c. 2700 BC, aka Hsi-Ling-Shih 西陵氏),[3] wife of the Yellow Emperor (黃帝) [4].—the instituter of Chinese culture, invented silk farming. She taught people how to raise silkworms, collect the cocoons, dissolve them to obtain the threads. Although the existence of these mythical figures would be difficult to trace, early-twentieth-century archeological researches in Neolithic culture along the Yellow River, known as Yangshao culture (仰韶文化), found evidences of sericulture dated around 3000 BC.[5] Silk grew to be a symbol of power and wealth in China before being introduced to the world through the “silk road.”[6]

Every year, a new class of children will learn of the silk culture and will be encouraged to get a few silkworms in order to observe their life cycles. Even without suggestions from teachers, most children would raise the worms as their seasonal pets in spring time. Mom would take us to neighborhood corner store to pick up baby silkworms (蠶寶寶) in small paper containers. The dark-colored larvae were tiny. But they wiggled and fed on mulberry leaves vigorously. Robert and I made sure to put down new tissues for them daily, keeping them healthy and happy. We wiped fresh mulberry leaves, making sure that they were clean and dry, before placing them in the box. The earthy smell of the leaves would fill up the room. The larvae quickly became grayish-white-colored caterpillars. Every few days, as they grew to a certain size, they would stop feeding and stayed motionless to shed their skins—molting. Their appetite would increase with their size.

Eventually, one by one, after the fourth molting, they began twisting their bodies and wrapping themselves with transparent threads. At first, we could still see them through the threads. Gradually, the cocoons became solid, white and shiny, like little eggs.[7] We understood that the caterpillars would morph into pupae before becoming silk moths and breaking out of the cocoons. Mom explained to us that, in order to harvest the silky thread, one must throw the cocoons in hot water. She also told us that it would take many cocoons to produce beautiful silk fabric. So, year after year, not wanting to kill the pupae, we kept the cocoons intact. Out of curiosity, I often picked them up, listening to see if there might be any motions inside. A few times, we got to see the moths hanging around. Most years, having missed the right moment when the moth came out, we could only send off the empty cocoons with sadness. It was always my secret hope to see a whole cocoon dissolve into an endless thread, stretching out for miles.

Bombyx mori caterpillars are picky eaters. Although they will eat leaves of all varieties of mulberry (and Osage orange), those of white mulberries are preferable. I read that white mulberries were introduced to North America with the plan to establish silk industry here. The plan failed but the trees adapted to the New World and became part of the landscape. My friend and I walked casually, watching birds and squirrels busying themselves with fruits, pink, red, black. . . no matter. The differences between the native and the exotic species also matter very little to me. The sight of mulberry trees, leaves and fruits will always remind me of stories of childhood, of the images of those mysterious caterpillars that had long melted into my childhood dreams, and of my heritage.


[1] The_Twenty-four_Filial_Exemplars_二十四孝_Wiki
[2] In 9AD, 王莽 (Wang Mang), a powerful political figure of the Western Han Dynasty, taking advantage of the internal turmoil of the court, seized power and established 新朝 (New Dynasty). His rule was short-lived (9-23AD) and tumultuous. Farmers rose up and formed rebellion forces. The two major rebel groups were 赤眉軍(Red-Eyebrowed Army) and 綠林軍 (Green Forest Army).
[3] Leizu_Wiki
[4] Yellow_Emperor_Wiki
[5] Yangshao_culture#Archaeological_sites_Wiki
Silk History, Silk Road Foundation
[6] Silkworm-Life-Cycle-YouTube
[7] The “Silk Road” was a network of corridors connecting China, Far East, Middle East and Europe. Started as trade routes, it also played an important role in cultural exchange. Colin Thubron provided in-depth discussions on the history and presence of the Silk Road in Shadow of the Silk Road, first published by Chatto & Windus in Great Britain in 2006; by HarperCollins in U.S. in 2007 and reprinted by Random House in 2012.

端午節 (Dragon Boat Festival)

Yesterday was 端午節 (Duanwujié, commonly known as Dragon Boat Festival) for 2019. 端午 Duanwu takes place on the fifth day of the fifth month (午月) in Chinese lunar calendar. There are many different theories on the origin of this holiday. I will stay with the version that is familiar to most Chinese children.

屈原 (Qu Yuan, c. 340-278 BC) was a nobleman of the State of Chu (楚國) during China’s Warring States period. He was a poet and an influential member of the court of King Huai (懷王).[1] Unfortunately, he became the victim of power struggles both within the court and between Chu and neighboring states, and was banished to remote regions multiple times. As the powerful Qin State gaining the control of Chu’s capital city, Qu Yuan committed suicide, drowning himself in Miluo (汨羅) River, holding a heavy rock. When locals learned of the tragedy, they beat drums and rolled out boats to drive away fish and evil spirits; they dropped rice into the river so fish would not harm the Qu Yuan’s body. Thus began the traditions of dragon boat races and eating rice dumplings (zongzi, 粽子).[2]

The main ingredient for 粽子is sweet sticky rice. There are many regional varieties. They can be savory or sweet. Usually, they are wrapped in dried bamboo leaves and tied up with twine. Mom learned to make central-Taiwanese style zongzi from our neighbor Mrs. Lee. The ingredients included braised pork belly, shiitake mushrooms, peanuts and chestnuts. (Sounds labor-intensive already, doesn’t it?) Occasionally, mom would add salted duck egg yolks. Although it’s fun to watch mom wrapping the ingredients with rehydrated bamboo leaves, I loved even more helping her prepare the sticky rice. Finely chopped shallots, dried shrimp and pickled Daikon radish were fried in hot oil. Pre-soaked and drained rice would then be added to the wok. To prevent the rice from sticking to the wok, one must stir the rice mixture constantly while gradually adding broth/sauce. (Chinese risotto, anyone?)

We used to wait for eating zongzi once a year. Nowadays, freshly made zongzi are available all-year-round at night markets, from street vendors, and even in the frozen food section of grocery stores. Fewer people take on the time-consuming task of making them at home. I missed walking down the streets when very family was busy preparing zongzi. The smell of sticky rice and bamboo leaves would come through every kitchen window, sweet and warm.

It was a common practice in Taiwan to eat eggplant and long string beans on Duanwu. Mom always cited the idiom: “吃茄會超騰,吃豆吃到老”[3] (“Eating eggplants makes one energetic and lively; eating beans will bring longevity.”) In Taiwanese, 茄 (eggplant) is pronounced “kio, ㄍㄧㄡˊ;” rhyming with 超騰 “chio—tio, ㄑㄧㄡ/ㄊㄧㄡˊ.;” 豆 (bean, dou; ㄉㄠˇ), rhyming with 老 (old, lau; ㄌㄠˊ). I always loved vegetables. Unfortunately, mom’s blanched eggplants and beans on Duanwu were always plain. The addition of sesame oil and soy sauce didn’t help much. Perhaps mom thought that, with the flavorful zongzi, she could go light on the veggies.

In southern China, salted duck eggs with red yolks are part of the celebratory food tradition. Some people believe that, because of the positions of sun and earth on Duanwu, it is possible to balance fresh chicken eggs upright on flat surface (立蛋). It brings one good fortune throughout the year.

In Chinese culture, Duanwu marks the arrival of summer, when venoms become active. People hang bundles of 艾草 (artemisia), 蒼蒲 (acorus calamus), and 香茅 (lemongrass) on the door to keep evil spirits away.[4] They drink realgar wine (雄黃酒) for disease-prevention.[5] Sometimes, the liquor is rubbed on the forehead of children too young to consume alcoholic drinks. (It is very similar to the practice of worshipers receiving ashes on their forehead on Ash Wednesday.)

Kids are also given perfume pouches (香包) made of colorful fabric in all shapes and forms[6] filled with perfuming spices for protection. At school, we made zongzi-shaped perfume packages with craft paper or cardstock and wrapped them with multi-colored silky threads. Later, I learned to make pouches with leftover fabrics and kept them in my drawers and closets. The practices of using herbs and spices for protection might have started with superstitions. But it makes perfect sense to strengthen one’s immune system as the hot summer months arrives, and to use natural insect repellents.

Like all children, I loved Duanwu for the smell of zongzi, for the beautiful perfume pouches and for the excitement of dragon boat races. Like all children, I also knew that the school year would soon be over. Happy summer months were in sight.


[1] Qu Yuan’s literary works are collected in the anthology 楚辭 (Chu Ci), representative of early poetic writing of southern China. Chu_Ci_: Wiki
Among them was the epic poem 離騷 (Li Sao), in which Qu Yuan expressed his political ideal and despair. Li_Sao: Wiki
Contrasting to the anonymous works in 詩經 (Shijin, Classic of Poetry), representative of the northern style, Qu’s approach was personal and romantic. The two anthologies became the foundation of Chinese poetic writing. Classic_of_Poetry_Chinese: Wiki
[2] Life-in-Taiwan-dragon-boat-festival
[3]A variant of the phrase is “食茄吃到會搖,吃豆吃到老老”
[4]Garlic and additional herbs are added according to regional preferences and practices.
[5]Realgar_wine: WikiSince realgar contains arsenic sulfide, despite it being an effective insect repellent, it is probably not a great idea to consume realgar wine.
[6]Images of perfume pouches