Central Taiwan revisited (1)

Early September, after staying over in Guguan, we visited cousin Wu and his family in Zhongxing New Village 中興新村, once the provincial capital of Taiwan and now a developing IT center.  Cousin Wu’s mother was mom’s younger sister, who passed away early last year.  He lived with us while attending one of the top high schools in Taipei.  A diligent student and a kind person with a great sense of humor, he became a big brother to me and Little Cop.  After getting advanced degrees in the States, he settled in central Taiwan and raised his family there.

Our earlier tie to the village was through auntie Zhu, mom’s younger cousin, who worked for the provincial government.  During our first trip to this region years ago, we stopped by in Zhongxing New Village to visit her.  For a little girl, visiting the center of the governmental administration was a big deal.  Having a relative working there was even more special.  Yet, all I remembered from the visit was the quaint residential section of the village: one-story houses on tree-lined streets.  (Later I learned that the design of the village was based on the concept of “garden cities.”)

Since auntie Zhu lived far from us, I never met her before.  Shyness prevented me from getting to know her better in a short visit.  However, she remained in touch with mom.  Two summers ago, while I was in Taipei, she and her daughter came to visit us.  Mom didn’t remember auntie.  But when I showed her the photos later that evening, she pointed auntie out by name.  I called to thank auntie Zhu for the visit and told her that mom did recognize her in the photos.

During this trip, we did not visit the old capital site.  Decades of political pendulum has led to the decline of the capital village, as the adjacent area gradually turned into a recreational center.  The roads all seemed wider and smoother than before.  Green waves from the lotus fields, graced by elegant pink flowers, softened the surroundings under the late summer sun.  Trendy signs of café and restaurants added a hint of geek culture.

We met cousin Wu, his wife and two daughters at an Italian restaurant for pizza and pasta!  I never, in my wildest dream, would imagine traveling to Central Taiwan for Italian food.  Fun and funny.  Then, we visited their new house.   It was beautifully designed with natural stone floor, open concept living space.  Also taken consideration was easy accessibility for elders, meant to provide a suitable environment for auntie.  Yet, she did not get to enjoy it. . .

We last saw auntie over a decade ago in a nearby town Caotun草屯.  The township was very close to the epicenter of the 1999 Jiji earthquake.  There were still visible damages everywhere after several years.  Our conversations largely circled around their aftermath experiences in the first few days after the mainshock:  Their house was mostly intact.  But, there was no power and no supplies.  Having no access to the outside world, not being able to reach friends and relatives, made the situation even more stressful.

We stayed overnight.  Mom and auntie, not having seen each other for a while, chatted gently before going to bed.  The next day, our two families visited well-known tourist spots in the region:  Sun-moon lake日月潭 and Xitou 溪頭.  Although we had all been there before, we cherished the opportunity to share the joy together.

Time flies.  Cousin’s little daughters are now in college and high school.  We miss auntie’s presence in our party.  When will we all be together again?  How will our environment change?

Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋節)

Tonight is the full moon of the eighth Chinese lunar months in 2018—Mid-autumn Festival.  It is one of the three major holidays of the lunar year.  The other two being Chinese New Year (spring celebration) and Duanwu Festival (Dragon Boat Festival, beginning of summer).  Traditionally, families get together on Mid-autumn Festival, celebrating the autumn harvest under the brightness of moonlight.

According to Chinese mythology, there are a few regular occupants on the moon: Chang’e (Chang-o) 嫦娥, the Moon Goddess; her companion Jade Rabbit 玉兔, eternally pounding immortal medicinal herbs; and Wu Gang 吳剛, chopping a never-falling laurel tree.  There are different versions of stories associated with these mythological characters.  Nevertheless, they all revolved around an immortal elixir.  Was eternal loneliness the remuneration for the desire for immortality?

Growing up, Mid-Autumn Festival means mooncakes.  They are the sweetest of Chinese sweets.  The confluence of regional food cultures meant great variety in texture and taste: Taiwanese, Cantonese, Suzhou. . . They all have two things in common: round shape, symbolizing fulfillment of hope and family reunion, and dense fillings.  The fillings are so thick that one can easily hide a message inside.  According to folklore, at the end of the Yuan dynasty (the 14th century), revolutionaries used mooncakes to spread their messages overturning Mongolian rule.  My favorite was Cantonese style cakes filled with lotus seed paste and salted egg yolks.  Pineapple was my choice of fruity fillings.  In recent years, influenced by Western desserts, there are long lists of new flavors.

Still, the most memorable thing was admiring the moon with my family.  Usually mom would place a small table in the garden where we would have dinner under the moonlight.  Then, we walked casually to Taiwan University, bringing with us cakes and fruits.  We would sit by the large pond where we could look up to the moon and/or look down to its silvery reflection.  Mom always asked if we could see the rabbit in the moon.  I tried year after year. . . not that I actually believed there was a rabbit in the moon, but I wondered what in the moon caused our ancestors to make up such a story.  We chatted quietly so not to disturb other families around us.  As we enjoyed the sweets and fruits, the air cooled down and the grass dampened.  Then, we knew it was time to go home.

During mom’s visits in Ohio, we tried celebrating Mid-Autumn Festival twice.  The first time, we went to the bank of Lake Erie near downtown Cleveland.  It was so cold and windy that we stayed no more than twenty minutes.  The second time, we tried sitting on the patio in my own backyard.  Even with blankets and candles, we still didn’t last very long.

In 2002, mom moved to New York with me.  We invited mom’s old colleague Aunty Sophie and her husband to celebrate the holiday with us.  After dinner, we went to the deck on the 32nd floor of my building.  It seemed that we could almost reach the moon.  Its silvery light glimmered on waves of the Hudson River.  The small tea-flavored mooncakes were delicious.  Mom, on a strange land, was very happy to be with old friends.  It was the last time I celebrated Mid-Autumn Festival with mom.

A few times in late August, toward the end of my summer visits, Robert would get some mooncakes.  We sat in the courtyard with mom, pretending there was a full moon.  He remembered our beautiful time by the pond as clearly as I did.

In the last few decades, BBQ at parks and river banks became a popular Mid-Autumn Festival activity in Taiwan.  Perhaps because it is so much in contrast to how my family used to celebrate the holiday, I never quite understand it.  Maybe one of these years, I would be around to join the parties.

It rained in Taipei.  Robert’s attempt to bring mom out to celebrate was cut short by the downpour.

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival:  Wishing everyone fulfillment of wishes and harmonious family unity.